Ride Day 23: Pouilly Country

Can we talk about bugs? Over the past week or so I have seen a lot of cyclists wearing bandanas over their face. At first I thought it was a Covid thing, but then we started hitting enormous swarms of these little black flies. No-see-um size. They are thick and when we ride through them my arms are literally covered with the little buggers. And it is hard to breath without swallowing dozens of them. Then, Hau Pheng explained that these bandanas are required equipment along the Loire this time of year. I'm gonna buy one the next time I see a bike shop.

Here's today's route, except in reality our route resembled the one below only in where it started and where it finished. I did a serious reroute for a couple of reasons. First, to get us off the busy and fast D751, which we rode yesterday for a few miles and didn't enjoy at all. Second, on probably more importantly, Lorie found a couple of wineries she wanted to visit. The first was just outside of Sancerre, and the second was in Pouilly-sur-Loire.

Madame Marie-Claire fixed us an amazing breakfast this morning so we had to move pretty fast to make it to the first wine tasting appointment at 1130. And it was all uphill, it seemed like. But we made it to the winery, which is called Domaine Raimbault Pineau and it has been making wine since 1600. Wow. They have vines in four separate AOCs (AOC being Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, the organization that sets the rules on all French wines. The AOCs are Coteaux-du-Giennois, Menetou-Salon, Pouilly Fume and Sancerre. The first 2 we'd never heard of but the later 2 are familiar to most everyone. We tried wines from each and they were without exception extraordinary. (I sipped then spit into a spittoon, since we had a long way to ride.) The wines from the Coteaux-du-Giennois and Menetou-Salon AOCs were savignon blanc varieties and the Meneetou-Salon is the smallest AOC in France. Our favorite by far was a 2019 Sancerre, Cuvee Lucien (Lucien is the winemaker). We bought a bottle even though I was reluctant since we had a lot of climbing to do.

We will enjoy it with diner tonight

 

Our route next went up to the picturesque village of Sancerre, which sits petty high atop a hill. The ride up was difficult, but we did pass a couple of other cyclo-tourists who were pushing their bikes. We encouraged them on as we crept past slowly.

We had some time before our next wine tasting appointment at a winery in Pouillly-sur-Loire. We had some familiarity with this particular winery from some wine we'd purchased through Lorie's favorite wine source. The winery is called Regis Minet. Along the way we saw a little cafe on the river and stopped for lunch, something we haven't done yet on this trip. We had ice-cold water (much needed) and the "formule" menu, which included salad, potatoes with some delicious sauce, rice with veggies and a quiche of some type that also was delicious. Not bad at all, though I wouldn't want to eat that much every day.

Our lunch spot

Our lunch

After that big lunch we  slowly lumbered up a long hill to the Regis Minet winery and we were immediately welcomed by Natalie, who said that we looked parched and filled glasses for us of water.

I must have drank 2 gallons of water today -- it was super hot, in the low 90s. Thank you Natalie!

Natalie's English is perfect and she spent about 1 1/2 hours with us, telling her family's story about the winery and how just last year the wine making job has been passed on to the next generation, to her daughter, Lucia. We tried four different cuvees of Pouilly-Fume and each was as amazing as the one before it. Just really, really good wine. No wonder Pouilly-Fume has such a good reputation. Lorie will undoubtedly get some of this wine when we get home.

We rode on toward our Chambre de Hote in the town of Pouilly-sur-Loire, got lost along the way, and then found it. We were greeted by 2 pups, one of whom looks a lot like Milo. I took a picture and sent it to Mitch, explaining that I miss the animals and making sure that everything in Camp Sherman is good. Glad to report that everybody and everything is doing well.

And to cap it off, this place has a piscene. A swimming pool. We both went for a swim and it felt so good to take a dip. Nice way to spend the afternoon.

Salt water pool, as most are in Europe

A long ride tomorrow to the little village of Decize. We are camping on the Loire and hope the weather holds; they are saying that it might rain a bit. We'll let you know how we do.